Malaysia – Mum’s KL experience

Last day with my mum during her holiday, and what better place to spend it but in Kuala Lumpur, on Independence Day!

The weather was glorious if very hot, so after a lie-in, we headed into the KLCC park to walk around and enjoy the views of the towers. Lots of locals were running laps of the park, which was more than I wanted to do; I was happy just gently strolling.

We had booked our tickets for the Petronas Towers Skybridge for 12pm so we went into the KLCC Suria mall to get some breakfast, which failed; mum’s chosen breakfast comprised two very undercooked eggs, but luckily we were able to exchange this uneaten monstrosity for a perfectly acceptable croissant.

After perusing the gift shop, we went up the towers with a large group of Indian tourists from Bangalore. Weather wasn’t too hazy so we got a great view across the city!

Love the Skybridge for the feeling of walking above empty space but I’ve always preferred the observatory near the top of the tower.

We then went over to Merdeka Square to see the wonderful contrast of the old Anglican Church, the old colonial pavilion, near skyscrapers and the Malaysian flag flying high in the middle of the square, with ornamental gardens at the end.

 

As we couldn’t get access to the pavilion as it is a members’ club, we decided to find another bar elsewhere. We went to another colonial era bar which was a ten minute walk away, the Coliseum Café, which was a favourite haunt of W. Somerset Maugham. Had a delicious “Gunner A” to drink which was a mixture of ginger ale, ginger beer and angostura bitters. Yum!

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Finally, we started to end the day – dumplings time! Jumped in an uber to the restaurant, ridiculous traffic on the way, but great food 😊

An early night was due as we had to be at the airport before 7am tomorrow 😞 Night night Malaysia! I’ll miss this hotel with its spectacular views, lush bathroom and most comfortable bedding ever!

Malaysia – bye bye Bali, hello Kuala Lumpur!

Final day in Bali, our flight is at lunchtime arriving at 4pm in KL, so we had one last breakfast. We had previously experienced scrambled egg with tomato in it, and today it was toast which was much more acceptable… Or so one would think. It was a toasted sandwich, and guess the filling – banana! Accompanied by another incredibly thick smoothie, which was also banana. I never want to see or eat another banana ever again!

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We got a driver to take us back to the airport; the journey from Sanur to Ubud took well over an hour so we allowed 2 hours for this journey; of course somehow the journey was incredibly quick this time so it took just over an hour all the way from Ubud to the airport! Checked in the bags, chatted to a friendly Filipino man in the queue, and then went to grab something to eat in the airport before going through security. I chose a chocolate brownie – wasn’t quite like any brownie I’ve ever eaten as I could feel the texture of sugar in my mouth rather than cake. Nah…

Flight was delayed by an hour so we went through security (so easy!) and hung around in the airport for 4 hours(!) before finally boarding the plane. Was sat next to a German girl who had decided it was a great idea to eat a pot noodle on a turbulent flight when food is provided free of charge, but still better than the last flight where we were sat next to a man from “Perth” (which sounds like the start to a bad limerick) who was the most miserable man ever. Another turbulent flight and we landed in KL!

We caught the KL Ekspres to KL Sentral and then ignored the various taxi touts and got a voucher to the hotel for 18 ringgits – so cheap! Just as well we didn’t rely on the meter, as it was Merdeka eve so the traffic was crazy. The following day would be Malaysia’s Independence Day, so on the eve of independence or Merdeka, they would put on a big fireworks display near the Petronas Towers. Just as well we’d booked a hotel room with a view of the towers!

Arrived at the hotel eventually and our bags were taken up to our room while we checked in. We got up to the room… And wow, what a view!

After freshening up, we went to the restaurant within the hotel and had steak and a margarita – when in a 5* hotel, you gotta live the high life a bit, right? Great live music  while we were eating, delicious food and great service. Could get used to this!

To best enjoy the fireworks, we decided to watch them from our room rather than go up to the sky bar and pay £10 entry. We ordered a carafe of wine as room service… How lovely 😊 And the fireworks weren’t half bad either!

Happy Independence Day, Malaysia!

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Bali – Ubud, days 2 and 3, massages and monkeys

We’d had quite a full on day the day before, so decided to take it easier on our second full day. We started off with breakfast, which was a banana pancake and a platter each of fresh fruit! Mum had an hour of massage the day before and followed it up with another one today, the previous day was foot massage so today was an hour-long full body massage for only £4! We tried to find a reiki practitioner who we’d seen the day before, but the two times we tried to find him to book an appointment for the following day, he wasn’t there… I had a coffee while mum had her massage 😉

After the massage, we went for lunch, which was a shared portion of nasi goreng ayam (fried rice with chicken) and a portion of sate ayam each (chicken satay with peanut). Delicious!

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We had a bit of a wander around the markets, mum bought some flip flops, I bought a t shirt, and wandered until teatime. As we were wandering, we went past the reiki man’s place and checked again – he was apparently on his way back, so we waited for him, and mum had an hour long session with him. Two treatments in one day; luxurious or what!

We had booked a table for tea at a local place which supported local children, called Fair Warung Balé, set up by a Swiss German man and which was cheap and popular! We weren’t a big fan of the decor, as we had hundreds of flies dive bombing us and dying in the light in front, but we were there to give to a good cause rather than the quality of the place. Food was alright, pudding was better 😊 We then headed over the road for a cocktail – well I did, mum was having a healthy day so she had some tea without milk.

Day 3 started off again with breakfast, this time rather than giving me squash like I had been given so far, I was presented with a mango “smoothie” which wasn’t like any smoothie I’d ever had before; it was nearly solid, like it was part gelatine. If you lifted the straw out and dropped it back in, it didn’t sink… Mum saluted the straw 😂

We had planned to go to Monkey Forest today, and we decided to walk it, even if mum did moan about being hot or making us walk on the other side of the road for a while, etc… In order to prevent any monkey-related catastrophe, I’d decided that we shouldn’t bring our bags or any water, but instead just ourselves wearing long trousers, the room key, and money for the ticket. I checked online the night before and it said it was 30,000 entry so I brought around 70,000 rupiah with me. Got there, and it had gone up to 40,000 per person! I tried to explain to the woman that the official website said otherwise, but she just shrugged and turned away. I offered mum to go in without me, but she said no… What else could I do… I literally begged people to give me 60p! Probably a new low in my life, but one Aussie woman gave me 20p and a Belgian man gave me the 40p, so we coul go in!

First thing we saw upon entering was a woman with a monkey on her. Then later, a different woman, onto whom a monkey leapt, pulling her hair, crouched on her chest, scratching her arm, and biting into her water bottle. Felt quite pleased we’d packed light!

Wandered around the temple complex, which was so humid you could hardly breathe, you could see lots of monkeys just chilling out, and people being stupid towards them. Towards the end, we walked past the cremation ground, and mum walked past some monkeys at the end. This following few moments are now referred to by mum as the “menacing monkey” incident although I disagree. Mum was walking towards me when a monkey got up on its hind legs and very slowly began following her. Its arms were in the end but it wasn’t trying to get her, otherwise it would have just lunged/jumped like the others did. Mum slowly did a crab walk away, with the monkey slowly following her. Mum didn’t scream exactly, but did let out a brief high-pitched noise. I on the other hand was just laughing 😂 Eventually I clapped my hands and the monkey ran off. I think the monkey was just having a dare with its mates to see if it could freak out my mum without actually doing anything… Which it won!

We went for a juice and coffee to recharge after the monkey experience (after returning back to the room to get the bags of course, as I had no money on me!) Mum did her standard thing of tripping over every slightly different surface; between the bathroom and the room, corridors, stairs, etc. We then went for a look around the Ubud Palace. Lots of Chinese tourism there, lots of rural people pushing us out of the way.

We went to have a quick beer before returning home to get freshened up. Finally, that evening, mum decided she wanted to go back to her favourite restaurant, Hujan Locale. For starters, we had sate babi – we wanted to take a picture of it but it was just so delicious, that I only got a picture of mum scraping the plate clean! I had duck leg for my main and my mum had a curry. We also had more delicious cocktails! It was our last proper night in Ubud (as we would have to have an early night the following day) so good to go out with a bang!

Bali -Relaxation in Ubud, day one!

Our last morning in Sanur, another banana pancake for breakfast, and we just had to wait for the car to arrive; I’d arranged a car to pick us up and take us to our next guest house the day before over email, which was just as well as there was a power cut in Sanur so we had no aircon or Internet. We sat and waited by the pool while the staff seemed to be building a patio; lots of tiny buckets of concrete being brought to and fro, almost spilling on us! Fortunately the driver did show up on time and drove us to Ubud. It took about an hour as the traffic was appalling.

But finally… 6 years after I first said to my mum that she’d love Ubud and that she needed to go one day, she was finally here with me! We stayed at Loris Homestay, and the family were so nice; English level was basic but still better than our Indonesian. We we shown to our suite, one of 4, which was upstairs with a nice balcony, a massive room with twin beds, and strong aircon.

Once we’d dropped off our stuff, we went into Ubud to have a look around a bit. Stopped off at a little place just off Jalan Monkey Forest for mum’s first experience of Indonesian food – we had nasi goreng, chicken satay, and green beans with peanut. And of course the pre-requisite beer to accompany 😉 The temperature here was very pleasant; there was no aircon but we didn’t need it, definitely not after Japan!

It was lovely being able to walk up and down the road; traffic is obviously quite crazy and motorbikes absolutely everywhere, parked on the road and the pavement, appearing round corners, weaving around pedestrians and cars, but yet despite the apparent chaos, there is definitely some underlying order as no one was run over that we saw!

After a gentle relaxing day of wandering around, we went for some food, to a restaurant just opposite our accommodation, called Hujan Locale. It turned out to be mum’s new favourite restaurant! We had a delicious margarita with tamarind jam, nutmeg and herbs, and then I had beef rendang for my hit of classic Indonesian food. Mum had a beef stir fry which she ate very quickly so I presume she enjoyed it! We had got a papaya salad to share but we really didn’t need it, as the portions were so generous.

After a great day, we headed back for an early night 😁

Bali – By the beach in Sanur

So good to wake up and be in an actual bed rather than on a plane for a change! Lovely room, aircon, roomy, although it wasn’t quite the place I’d booked; I’d booked the Sindhu Mertha Guest House and they’d “upgraded” us to the Sindhu Mertha Suites supposedly; another staff member said that the Guest House was undergoing renovations, yet walking past it I could see guests going in and out so who knows what was actually happening. True Indonesian style 😉

Nice view from our room as we were upstairs at the back of the complex with a view over the pool, although we didn’t quite understand how breakfast worked – everyone else seemed to have a menu and breakfast delivered whereas I had to go in search of it. Standard banana pancakes, mum ordered tea with separate milk but we received hot coconut milk in a jug – unfortunately we didn’t notice until she’d already added it to her tea! That one went straight down the sink!

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We headed towards to beach and sat down for a lovely lunch at a cafe next to the beach overlooking the sea. I had fresh grilled fish and mum had shrimp, with beer and fresh fruit juice to accompany. Delicious! Finished off with a pudding – mango with coconut icecream. We met a fellow Brit who told us he came to this cafe every time he was in Sanur, and that he had lunch here every day!

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It was quite interesting to note how much the island had changed since my last visit in 2010 – so many more buildings and restaurants along the seafront, more upmarket venues, and also a lot of signs and businesses advertising in Chinese. Sadly also a lot more boats were arranging trips to Nusa Lembongan, and the British guy told us how it was full of hotels and other businesses now. Times have to change I suppose…

We walked along the seafront, parked ourselves on the edge of a hotel maintained section of beach, and had a lovely swim in the sea! I forgot how warm the sea is here 😊 At least that aspect of Sanur hasn’t changed!

We popped back to the hotel to get freshened up and then out for dinner, again by the seafront. The staff were telling us how they were all quite cold that evening – it was 25C so absolutely glorious for us! The restaurant wasn’t as nice as where we’d gone for lunch, and so when a huge tour group came and disrupted everyone by moving tables and chairs etc, we took it as a sign and went for a drink at the place where we’d had lunch. We also tried black rice pudding – interesting particularly when served warm, it not mum’s cup of tea at all(!), before using Grabcar to get a taxi back to the hotel.

Tomorrow, off to Ubud – I emailed the home stay to arrange for their driver to come to our hotel at midday to take us there, to save fiddling about with taxis and potentially being taken to the wrong place to try and sell us to another hotel!

Bali – 24 hours of travel, ie AirAsia red-eye flights = NO

One thing I decided when booking my flights to Denpasar was to ensure that we left enough time in KL for our non-connecting flight, as I knew we’d have to collect our luggage and also transfer terminals. We took the overnight flight from Japan to KL with AirAsia with our onward flight at 4pm, so we’d arrive, go to the hotel and sleep, and wake up the following day in Bali to maximise our time there. I planned that we could sleep on the plane and then go into KL during the day if time allowed… Right?

Well, even the best laid plans and all that… Our flight was delayed by one hour leaving Japan which doesn’t sound too bad, but it was delayed due to turbulence affecting the inbound flight. An ominous sign really! We ate our delicious cakes that I got from a patisseries in Daimaru in Tokyo while waiting, and finally got on the plane.

I’d paid extra for the quieter area with dimmed lighting in the hope of sleeping. The area was lovely and quiet, with not many people, so me and mum were able to get an entire row to ourselves! However the dimmed lighting was a lie; considering it was a red-eye flight, you would think that they’d turn the lights off like my 2nd Emirates flight to Taiwan did, however they just dimmed the aisle lighting a dim blue, but the lighting above the window was left on full brightness! In addition, the flight attendants were continually roaming the plane, trying to sell me souvenirs at 2am, offer me breakfast while I was sleeping with my hood over my face, and when I didn’t reply, actually shake me to wake me up…! Eventually I passed out around 3pm while lying across a whole row of seats. Mum on the other hand stayed awake and witnessed a lightning storm which she described as being like the end of days, truly apocalyptic – the seatbelt sign stayed on for the entire 7 hour flight, sheet lightning and massive turbulence!

I woke up during the descent and wished I hadn’t as the landing was appalling, shaking and bumping all over the place! As mum hadn’t slept a wink, I booked us into the Tune hotel outside the terminal for their “refresher package” ie 3 hours of sleep for 100RM. They wouldn’t let us check in until 9am as there were no available rooms so as it was only 7am, we left our bags and went back to the terminal for a drink and a bite to eat. At 9am on the dot we checked in. Mum thought the hotel was damp but to be honest I fell straight asleep and didn’t notice!

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at 12pm we left the hotel and made our way to KLIA from KLIA2 on the KL Transit train, checked in (very very slow queue) and then went to Starbucks to while away the next 2 hours until the onward flight.

Flight was on time, we flew with Malindo Air and they were great! In-flight meal, entertainment and everything – brilliant! Plus it was still daylight when we took off so we even got to see natural light from the window!

We arrived and got through security in record time, went outside to find our pre-booked airport taxi… No one there to meet us 😞 Our driver was running late, eventually we found him, he brought the car round to meet us, and finally we were on our way to the hotel!….right??!

NOPE. The car then promptly broke down just outside the airport, on a corner, on a busy road, about 300 yards from the airport toll booth. The driver determined, after failing to start the car multiple times, that it had run out of petrol. He informed us that because he was running late, he hadn’t had time to go to the petrol station. “A lack of preparation on your part does not constitute an emergency on mine” sprang to mind! He left us in the car while he walked to the petrol station. Mum felt very unsafe as the cars were coming quite close to our broken down vehicle, so insisted we stand on the verge, which was about 1 foot wide before a deep wide ditch full of water! Luckily the driver found a kind person who gave him a lift to the petrol station and back on the back of his motorbike. After filling up, all was working again! We got to the hotel about 9.30pm, and promptly went to bed. At least we were in Bali 😊

Japan – back to Tokyo and on to pastures new!

Final day in Japan! We caught the bullet train in the morning back to Tokyo – might sound weird as we have gone back and forwards but originally we had a flight booked with AirAsia from Osaka but they rescheduled our flight, delaying it by 14 hours which would have meant we would have missed our onward flight to Bali. They told us this before I left the UK so I rebooked the flights entirely to put us on a flight from Tokyo Haneda. At least Haneda is much easier to get to than Narita! We left the bags at the station – not the place I was hoping to leave them that I spotted last time we were in Tokyo but the station is actually a maze so couldn’t find the left luggage place!

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We decided to do a few more touristy things in Tokyo that we hadn’t had time for last time we were there. First stop: Senso-Ji, Tokyo’s oldest temple, originally opened in 645AD but bombed and destroyed in WW2 and rebuilt as a symbol of rebirth. To enter the temple complex, you go through the Thunder Gate, Kaminarimon. It’s absolutely huge with an incredible paper lantern hung in the entrance with a beautiful engraving of a dragon on the underside, hidden from view.

Walking from the gate towards the temple buildings, you go through an absolutely packed tourist market selling various knick-knacks from phone charms and key rings to clothing, slippers and robes. The crowds are just immense, and it’s hot without anyone near you; with so many people in close contact, it’s absolutely stifling. There’s also a nursery school on the left hand side; I pity the poor parents trying get through the throngs of tourists to collect their children! We then came to the temple proper, which was impressive but again so many people!

We went on the metro over to Ikebukuro, so I could visit the Mega Tokyo Pokemon Centre. Yay for Pokemon merchandise!!

For our last meal in Japan, I took mum for her first okonomiyaki at a little place on the 8th floor of an anonymous building. The lift opened directly into the restaurant. We cooked the okonomiyaki ourselves at the table. So delicious!

Our time in Japan had ended… Thank you to everyone I got to see while here, and sorry I couldn’t see more friends! We got the bags, headed to the airport to check in for our flight, and at 11.55pm got on our red-eye flight to KL. Bye bye Japan, hope to see you again soon!

Japan – Kyoto has so many temples…

Good morning Japan, so happy to spend my first ever morning in Kyoto! We didn’t have any breakfast goods in the flat so decided to go out for breakfast, and good grief. This was, without a doubt, absolutely the worst breakfast I’ve ever had in my life, and I’m including corn gruel at -20C in this calculation. Tofukuji, despite being so close to Kyoto main station, had very little that ever seemed to be open. At 8.30am, only one place aside from the convenience store was open, so we went in there, wondering how bad it could be. The menu was incredibly lacklustre, options were toast or shaved ice. I decided to err on the side of caution, and had a shaved ice and cheese on toast. I remember that cheese in Japan isn’t the best but was prepared mentally for crappy cheese, but not so prepared for the monstrosity that was presented to me.

Oh well never mind, let’s carry on to the next temple, Kurama-dera up Mt Kurama (yes I have been calling it Kuruma i.e. car in my mind the whole time!). To get there, we took a Keihan train to Demachiyanagi which took about 20 minutes and then the Kurama train itself was a further 35 minute scenic ride up into the mountain and arrived at the town of Kurama. We walked through the town to the temple, and rode the furnicular (YAY I LOVE THEM) up towards the mountain summit, and wandered around the temple complex. It was beautiful but only slightly cooler up in the mountain, and the 34C heat with high humidity was killing us! Mum had a fortune done and then we grabbed some tori kara age from a little shop (yummy chicken) before getting the trains back down.

In Kyoto station, we stopped off for a drink and a cake, as we’d been on the go since 9.30am and it was now 2.30pm. Mum had a fresh orange juice which she assured me was delicious; I should bloody hope so as it was £6 for a glass! I was reminded of the Simpsons episode where they go to Japan and buy a $100 square watermelon! We also had delicious cakes, I had matcha and white chocolate and mum had a sponge cake with strawberries.

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We then went to Arashiyama bamboo forest; everyone says that pictures cannot do it justice, and they really can’t! It’s so ethereal as the bamboo is so tall, the gentle wind makes them knock together and a hollow wooden sound reverberates through the forest. They are all different shades and it’s just a wonderful place to experience.

We followed the path along to Tenryu-Ji temple which is a Buddhist Zen temple built in the 1300s and classified by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. The gardens are beautifully designed and sculpted, with empty space and ornate natural trees juxtaposed by gravel and lakes to provide the negative empty space to compliment the intricacies of nature. The temple itself is a wonderful building built of dark polished wood and large, open, airy rooms with white walls. We stayed there until closing and watched the sunset.

Finally, to celebrate our last night in Kyoto (and indeed last proper night in Japan) mum finally felt ready to go out for her first ever sushi experience, and where better to try it than in Japan! We were looking at several places, including some places near where we were staying, but everything seemed to be shut. We decided to try a little place down a back street called Tomi Sushi and ordered a mixed set as well as some fatty tuna. Mum tried everything, even the octopus, and loved everything except the octopus! Weve also discovered that she loves the pickled ginger and really likes wasabi.

After a gorgeous meal we were ready to head home, so did a scenic route through Gion and along the river, and an old Japanese man appeared from nowhere and started talking to us; it turned out that he used to live in Britain for 20 years, and he was constantly studying English to try and improve it. He fished some ancient bits of paper out his pocket upon which he had written Japanese sentences and multiple possible translations, and asked me to pick the most natural sounding translations. He hugged us goodbye and we went on our way!

Japan – off to Kyoto we go!

Another day in Japan, another day travelling between cities! Today we waved bye to Tokyo (for now) and set off for Kyoto where I had booked an Airbnb flat one stop from Kyoto central station. But first we had to get our stuff together in the ryokan… It transpired that my mum was incapable of actually wearing her backpack on her back… You know, like you’re supposed to… The last time we’d travelled with her carrying her backpack like a baby, we ended up stopping every few minutes, so this time I decided enough was enough and wore my normal backpack and daypack attached together on my back, and my mum’s pack on my front, leaving her to simply carry her tiny daypack (think a primary school child) and her cloth handbag. Easy yes? Well I think the photos speak for themselves (!)

Slowly made it over to Tokyo station, and had a lovely scenic ride on the bullet train to Kyoto. I had ensured when booking our seats that we would be sitting on the right hand side of the train, so mum could try and get a view of Fuji. As we rounded the corner, I tried to point it out to her, but cloud was enshrining the top so mum didn’t understand when I was attempting to explain to her just how tall it was. It was nearly out of sight when… The summit of Fuji emerged from the cloud, and we could see the peak encircled by a halo of fluffy clouds. We arrived into Kyoto, jumped on the Nara line trains one stop to Tofukuji, and found our compact flat was just round the corner from the station, most conveniently!

We then headed straight out to see Fushimi-Inari shrine before dark. It is just absolutely breathtaking – obviously there are a lot of tourists visiting it, but even still as you proceed up the mountainside through the gates, you get the occasional moment of being completely and entirely alone, a brief period of solitude where you can just look around and marvel at this beautiful place. And then of course a surge of tourists come through all shouting in their respective tongues, children going berserk, dogs running around, and the moment is gone. But life is just a series of moments I guess so couldn’t ask for any more 😊 At least there wasn’t a child pissing in a train carriage unlike China!

That evening, mum wanted to have some gyoza (panfried dumplings) so we went to a place called Tiger Gyoza. We had three types of gyoza, our favourite being spicy pork ones made with edible charcoal so they were black in colour. Perfect accompanied by a beer 😉

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Japan -Utsunomiya

The last time I came to Japan, in 2009, one of the most important things I did was go to Utsunomiya to visit an old family friend of mine. Back when I was 13, I went to school near a Honda factory and so many of the employees sent their children to my school. Many of my friends were Japanese and it started a lifelong love of foreign languages for me. One family were the Toyodas – their daughter was the year above me and their son was four years above me. We would always talk with the mother as she was always at the school gates, and also volunteered at the school and helped with some cultural sessions. In 2009 I went to visit with her and stayed at her family home for a week, and also experienced my first earthquake while there(!), so I was very excited to return and see her again and this time with my mum.

We started the morning with breakfast at the hotel, I had washoku (Japanese style) whereas mum went for the western option – I’ve never seen a fry up served with mashed potato before!

We caught the Shinkansen at 10.30 am to Utsunomiya, a quick journey of less than an hour, and immediately on arriving we could see Mayumi waiting to greet us from behind the ticket barrier 😊 The station has changed a lot, it’s a lot bigger now, more shops and the area around the station is more developed now as well! We jumped in her car and went to a Starbucks for a drink and a cake, as well as a catch up – my spoken Japanese is pretty poor and her English was nearly non-existent, so we made use of my dictionary and also tried out the google translate voice translation feature, which wasn’t too bad and helped my mum to speak directly with Mayumi!

Mayumi then took us back to her home, which hasn’t changed at all in the last 7 years.  Mr Toyoda was there, and it was lovely to see him as well. We discussed families, changes in respective countries, and Mr Toyoda subtly tried to set me up with his son(!) – I think I’ll take that as a compliment 😛

We spent a happy couple of hours together, had an ice cream, before getting on the train back to Tokyo. Was so nice to see them – hopefully won’t have to wait another 7 years before seeing them again!